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No Turning Back

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By Denise A.

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Revesz October 26, Download PDF. Wary of the typewriter that landed his father in interrogation rooms, he avoided learning to read his own language.

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No Turning Back

He did not see Kurdish fighters carve out autonomous rule across north and east Syria. He did not see his son, now 34, become a teacher at a Kurdish school in the city of Qamishli on the border with Turkey. Kurdish leaders now hold about a quarter of Syria, the biggest chunk outside state hands. But their grip on power โ€” in a region rich in oil, farmland and water โ€” remains vulnerable: President Bashar al-Assad wants all of Syria, Turkey threatens to crush them and U.

The changes reshaping swathes of Syria have alarmed neighboring states that fear separatism within their own Kurdish communities. Millions of Kurds, an ethnic minority left stateless when the Ottoman empire collapsed a century ago, live in Turkey, Iran, Syria and Iraq.

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In Qamishli, these changes were once unimaginable. A law student who was tortured for carrying a Kurdish book now owns a bookstore.

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  • A woman who once secretly huddled with friends at night to learn Kurdish is now a de facto education minister. Kurdish activists who could not protest without risking arrest now have printing presses, festivals and television channels. The shift is glaring in school hallways where, for eight years, a generation has grown up not only learning Kurdish but also learning to believe that Kurds deserve the rights they were denied for decades and must hold on to them. We will not turn back.

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    Syrian Kurdish leaders say they do not seek independence but want to cement autonomy that has evolved to include security forces and what amounts to a government. Yet the sandbags and trenches around some schools or the armed men guarding printing presses show their fate still hangs in the balance.

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